Forum sumaru clutch switch12/17/2023 ![]() So anyways it’s a little more sentimental for us since we loved the car, but if owning a Subaru means needing a new engine at 70,000 miles then we will buy a different brand, and I recommend you do the same. The car was burning oil at 39,000 miles and they admit that but it wasn’t burning enough to fail the test. We will not buy another Subaru again, not so much because of the problems, because hey problems happen, but we will not buy one because they are not willing to stand 100% behind their products (only 62.5% apparently). When you hold the switch the cutout resistor is in play when you let go, the factory part is back in play. The factory unit goes on the normally active pair and a set resistor bridges the momentary pair. We still thought we would get a new one after this one but if we have to pay for a new engine 10,000 miles past the warranty because of a common problem like burning oil that started during the warranty period (there’s cars 20 years old that don’t have this problem) then no thanks. Cut the 2 wires a few inches from the connector Wire the computer to the middle pair. We loved our 2010 forester and traded it in in 2015 for This one. Carefully remove it, its going to be heavy. Switch over to a 14mm and unbolt the flywheel from the crank. Pull it off the locator pins and remove the old clutch. Unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel using the 12mm socket. Well I must be the black sheep of the family. If you have an impact wrench, it comes in really handy right now. ![]() Even being on hold with them you hear recordings boasting about “the Subaru family” and how much they care. The dealership explained to me that the clutch master cylinders push rod had excessive play or. This only happened during the first 2 cm of travel when pushing down on the clutch and on the return stroke of the same 2 cm. It seems this problem is very common and this is all very disappointing. I dont know what the problem was but prior to sending my car in the clutch would make an odd clicking or popping noise. Even 70,000 miles is way too low of mileage to have this kind of problem. Subaru did offer to pay more than half of the $8000 engine replacement, but even $3,000 is a struggle for us being on one income, with only this one car. Ok? Even though the problem started 20,000 miles before the warranty was up it doesn’t matter. She didn’t say I was a liar but pretty much she said it didn’t fail the test then so just because the oil light came on and there was no oil doesn’t mean it was burning. if you wire pins 3 and 4 from the realy to pin 12 on the inhibitor switch harness, pin 1 on the relay to pin 11 on the inhibitor harness and then finally pin 2 on the relay to one of the wires on the clutch switch harness( other. I was looking at your diagrams here they don't make that much sense because there missing a lot. Who agrees to pay more than half unless they admit their engines don’t hold up? The customer advocacy manager who called me (she must be the CEO of Subaru because she doesn’t have a manager above her) just went around in circles with me while refusing to acknowledge that this was a problem in 2018. just came across your post after doing a manual swap in my own car.
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